May 04, 2005
Robatayaki: the art of grilling Japanese style
"SOME American cooks believe that grilling is the national pastime. But it's also a passion in Korea and Japan, where cooks enjoy a particularly cozy relationship with the fire.
In Korean restaurants the grill is in the middle of the table, where everyone can reach it.
"Cooking together and serving other people are part of the barbecue experience," said Max Han, who runs an online guide to Korean-American culture at newyorkseoul.com. "It's one of the ways we Koreans feel jeong, a bonding, a connection that's very important in our culture."
New Yorkers already choose Korean barbecue when they want to go from the frying pan to the fire. When Nobu Matsuhisa opens Nobu 57 this summer, it will have a 12-seat table around a Korean-style charcoal grill.
More and more, though, New Yorkers are seeing takes on a Japanese version of grilling, robatayaki (or robata for short) in refined but rustic Japanese restaurants where food is cooked in front of the customer and served with excruciating simplicity. Tokyo robatas - as restaurants that specialize in this food are also called - are nostalgic upscale places like Daigomi and Inakaya. They grill ingredients including prime Matsusaka beef and Australian prawns over a premium charcoal called bincho-tan, which costs $4 for a single stick. In New York the recently opened Japanese restaurants Ono, Megu and Komegashi all have robata selections.
"Right now in Tokyo robata is very elegant, very trendy," said Jun Hashimoto, a sales associate at the Korin Japanese Trading Corporation, a restaurant supplier in TriBeCa. "That's why all the Japanese chefs here want to do it."
Masaharu Morimoto, a star of "Iron Chef" on the Food Network and an owner of Morimoto restaurant in Philadelphia, plans to open 12 restaurants nationwide called PauliMoto, with robata and sushi bars. "The most important things in robata are charcoal and prime beef," he said. "The flames, the smoke, the dynamic action of the chef: this is something that Americans already like."
Robatas ("ro" means hearth, or fireplace) are descended from simple beach restaurants where fishermen cooked their catch over an open fire, with only an oar as a cooking utensil. (Robata chefs still use a wooden paddle to pass food to customers.)
At Ono the executive chef, Scott Ubert, stores ingredients in brine until just before they go on the grill, to replicate the flavor of seawater and keep them moist on the grill.
Traditional robatas have a horseshoe-shaped bar wrapped around a hearth; ingredients like whole fish, chunks of prime meat, shiny green shishito peppers, corn on the cob and enokitake mushrooms are set on ice, and customers pick. Chefs thread the food onto long metal skewers using delicate techniques like the stitch and the fan.
"A robata is a place of great ceremony and also great noise," said Steven Raichlen, a grilling expert who has traveled widely in Japan, referring to the boisterous shouting of orders between the cook and the waiters.
Mr. Morimoto and others say that no true robata exists in the United States. New York's so-called robata grills are enclosed within other restaurants, like Megu and Ono, which use bincho-tan charcoal to grill luxurious ingredients like foie gras and Kobe-style beef. Jewel Bako Robata, a rigorously authentic robata in the East Village, closed last month. It just reopened as a Korean barbecue place, Grace's Kalbi Bar.
While Japanese grilling is preoccupied with pristine ingredients and ever-fattier beef, Korean grilling is dedicated to garlicky, spicy marinades and smoky flavor. Charcoal is considered a necessity for good grilling in both countries, something to which American grill snobs can relate.
The Japanese chain Gyu-Kaku, which serves its popularized version of Korean barbecue (including thin slices of beef tongue and house-made pork sausages) at 800 branches in Japan, just opened its first New York restaurant in the East Village. Managers patrol aisles with buckets of hot charcoals, replacing dying ones as needed. " (Click here to read more)
01:28 Posted in Food & Drinks | Permalink | Comments (81) | Email this
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